Bengaluru to Chikmagalur, Karnataka
Chikmagalur is where Karnataka climbs highest: the Baba Budangiri range rises out of coffee country in long grassy ridges, and at dawn the valleys below are often lost under cloud. This weekend puts you on top of Mullayanagiri, the state's highest peak, early in the morning, then down a jeep track to the spray of Jhari Falls and on to a still lake for sunset.
We leave Bengaluru on Friday night and arrive before first light. Sunday slows down with a morning at Belur, where the Hoysala sculptors carved dancers, musicians and elephants into soapstone in astonishing detail, and a stop at the Yagachi reservoir before the drive home.
Day by day
Drop-off: Bengaluru (same pickup points, dropped back after the trip)
Day 1
An overnight drive and straight up to Mullayanagiri as the gates open. A jeep ride to Jhari Falls follows, then a late breakfast, a lazy afternoon and sunset by Hirekolale lake.
Board the Tempo Traveller (Friday night). First pickup at RMZ Ecospace, Bellandur, then Yeshwanthpur Metro, Goraguntepalya and the Nelamangala toll on Tumkur Road. Wear your walking shoes on board; we go straight to the peak.
Reach the stay, freshen up. A quick wash and a hot tea. Leave your big bag here and take a jacket, water and a torch.
Drive to the Kaimara checkpost. The hill road to Mullayanagiri needs a pre-booked online vehicle pass and opens around 06:00. We book the pass in advance and queue early for the first slot.
Climb to Mullayanagiri summit. From the parking, a climb of a few hundred stone steps leads to a small Shiva temple at about 1,930 m. On clear mornings cloud fills the valleys; it is cold and windy at the top.
4x4 jeep to Jhari Falls. The last stretch to Jhari is a steep, rutted estate track that only local jeeps can manage. Expect to be jolted; the shared jeep fare is paid on the spot.On your own
Jhari Falls. The falls drop through coffee and forest into a shallow pool. Strongest after the monsoon; rocks are slippery, so stay near the edge and keep phones in a pouch.
Late breakfast and check in. A hearty Malnad breakfast back at the stay, then a shower. Rooms or tents are multi-sharing.
Lunch in Chikmagalur town. Pay-as-you-go. Try a Malnad meal with akki rotti and a strong filter coffee.On your own
Rest at the stay. Catch up on sleep after the early start, or sit out among the coffee bushes.
Sunset at Hirekolale lake. A quiet reservoir ringed by the Baba Budangiri hills, about 10 km from town. The ridges turn dark against an orange sky as the sun sets behind them.
Dinner and bonfire at the stay. Dinner together around the fire, weather permitting, then an easy night.
Overnight near Chikmagalur. Nights can be chilly even in summer; keep a warm layer out.
Day 2
A slow breakfast, then the sculpted Chennakeshava temple at Belur and the Yagachi reservoir next door. We head home after lunch.
Breakfast and check-out. An unhurried breakfast and a final coffee before we load the bags.
Chennakeshava Temple, Belur. The twelfth-century Hoysala temple is covered in soapstone carvings, from friezes of elephants to the famous bracket figures of dancers. Take time over the pillars inside the hall.
Yagachi reservoir. A wide stretch of water just outside Belur, good for a walk along the bank. Boating and water sports here are optional and paid on your own.
Lunch in Belur. Pay-as-you-go at a local restaurant in town.On your own
Depart for Bengaluru. Back via Hassan and the Kunigal highway, with a tea stop on the way.
Arrive Bengaluru, trip ends. Drop-offs at Nelamangala, Goraguntepalya, Yeshwanthpur and RMZ Ecospace, roughly 19:30 to 21:00 depending on Sunday traffic.
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